Production of stiffened fabrics



May 16, 1939. D. FINLAYSON ET AL 2,158,112

PRODUCTION OF STIFFENE D FABRICS Filed Aug. 20, 1936 ATTORNEYS Patented May 16, 1939 UNITED STATES PRODUCTION OF STIFFENED FABRICS Donald Finlayson and Harry Crawshaw, Spondon, near Derby, England, asslgnors to Celanesc Corporation of America, a corporation of Dela- Application August 20, 1938, Serial No. 96,910

p In Great Britain August 31, 1935 9 Claims. 139-420 This invention relates to the production of stiffened fabrics and fabric articles and is especially, but not exclusively, concerned with the production of stiffened articles of apparel such as the stiff or semi-stiff collars and culls etc. of mens shirts.

A convenient method in the production of stiffened fabrics is to unite two layers of fabric together by means of an intermediate layer of i0 fabric containing a cellulose acetate or other thermoplastic derivative of cellulose, the two fabrics being assembled together with the intermediate layer and being subjected to heat and pressure, usually in the presence of a suitable 1!! liquid to facilitate adhesion. Under these conditions the cellulose acetate or other thermoplastic derivative of cellulose in the intermediate layer is caused to melt or coalesce and to form a bond between the two external fabrics. Two 20 fabrics may be united together in this way by means of an intermediate layer containing a cellulose derivative, or three or more fabrics may be united together by means of two or more intermediate layers. It is an object of the pres- 25 cut invention to produce a fabric which is particularly well adapted for use as an intermediate layer in the production of stiflened fabrics and fabric articles.

According to the present invention, an inter- 30 mediate fabric consists of yarns of thermoplastic material, such as cellulose acetate or other organic derivative of cellulose together with yarns of non-thermoplastic or relatively nonthermoplastic fibres such as cotton, wool, linen,

reconstituted cellulose, natural silk and the like, the yarns of thermoplastic material forming floats on both sides of the fabric. When such a fabric is assembled between twoother fabrics and the assembly is subjected to heat and pres- 40 sure, the thermoplastic yarns are exposed for the greater part of their length on the surfaces of the fabric, where they are in an advantageous position to form a bond between the intermediate fabric and each of the fabrics on the two sides thereof.

The thermoplastic yarns which are floated on both sides of the fabric, may be disposed in the warp of the fabric or in the weft, or both, the floating being efl'ected by a suitable-warp 50 shedding and/or weft picking arrangement in the weaving of the fabric. The disposition of the thermoplastic yarns in the fabric is preferably such that the non-thermoplastic yarns therein themselves constitute a coherent fabric,

5 even though the thermoplastic yarns should have disappeared in the application of heat and pressure.

Two forms of fabric according to the invention will now be described in greater detail with reference to the accompanying drawing, in 5 which:

Figure 1 is an' enlarged diagrammatic view of the face of one form of fabric according to the invention; I

Figure 2 is a diagrammatic sectional view of the fabric shown in Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a weaving plan of the fabric shown in Figure 1, and

Figures 4, 5 and 6are views similar to Figures 1, 2and 3 respectively of a further form of fabric 1 according to the invention.

In the fabric illustrated in Figures 1, 2 and 3, pairs of weft yarns i and 2, consisting of cellulose acetate, are woven alternately with pairs of weft yarns 3, 4 made of cotton, together with warp threads 5 which are also made of cotton. The cotton weft yarns 3 and 4 pass over and under alternate warp yarns 5, as may be seen from Figures 1 and 3, while the cellulose acetate weft yarns I and 2 pass over and under alternate pairs of the warp yarns 5. As a result the cellulose acetate weft yarns I and 2 form floats as shown at 6 in Figure 2 on both sides of the fabric. Furthermore, the configuration of the warp yarns and of the cotton weft yarns is such that if the cellulose acetate weft yarns l and 2 were removed from the fabric the remaining cotton yarns would form a coherent fabric of plain weave.

In Figures 4, 5 and 6 a fabric is shown in which the warp yarns are alternately of cellulose acetate as at l and of cotton as at 8. These warp yarns are woven with a weft 9 consisting wholly of cotton. As may be seen at I in Figure 6, the cellulose acetate warps pass over and under al- 40 ternate pairs of the cotton. weft yarns 9, and, as is shown at 8 in Figure 6, the cotton warp yarns 8. pass over and under alternate single weft yarns 9. As a result the warp yarns 1 form floats on both sides of the fabric as shown at It in Figure 5. Moreover, if the cellulose acetate warp yarns I were removed from the fabric the remaining cotton warp yarns 8 and the weft yarns 9 would by themselves form a coherent fabric of plain weave.

The fabrics described above may be woven with yarns of any desired weight, spaced in the fabric with any appropriate density, according to the purpose to which the fabric is to be put. Thus, in the fabric described above with reference to may be of different characters,

Figures 4 to 6, the cotton yarns in warp and weft may be of 50's count, and the cellulose acetate yarns of 190 denier, the warps being spaced 120 ends per inchand the weft 84 picks per inch. The resulting fabric is of medium weight and suitable for such purposes as the production of semi-stiff collars. Or alternatively, the cotton yarns may be of 36s count, and the cellulose acetate yams of 140 denier, both warp and weft being spaced 60 per inch. The resulting fabric is a light intermediate fabric, suitable for use in articles in which more than one layer of intermediate fabric is used, such as the neckbands of shirts. r again, cotton yarns of 28s count and cellulose acetate yarns of 250 denier may be used, the warps being spaced 120 ends per inch and the weft '16 picks per inch. The resulting fabric is a heavy intermediate fabric, suitable for the production of stiff articles such as evening dress collars and Waistcoats.

The fabrics which according to the present invention are united together by means of the intermediate fabric may be of any desired character according to the appearance and other properties desired in the finished product, but should preferably be of a non-thermoplastic or relatively non-thermoplastic nature. Thus, for example, fabrics containing or consisting of such materials as cotton, linen, reconstituted cellulose, wool or silk may be employed. Such fabrics may be of any desired structure, e. g. woven, knitted or netted and they may all be of the same character or of different characters. Thus, if desired, the fabrics on the two sides of the stiffened product to give different appearances to the two sides. The fabrics need not consist wholly of non-thermoplastic fibres, but may contain fibres or yarns of a thermoplastic material, e. g. fibres of cellulose acetate or other cellulose derivative. Two layers of such fabric may be united by means of a single layer of intermediate fabric, or three, four or more layers may be united by means of two, three or ,more layers of intermediate fabric alternating therewith,

.whereby a product of greater weight and stiffness is obtained. An example of a typical assembly which may be employed for a stiff or semi-stiff collar or cuff comprises two layers of cotton or linen fabric united by means of an intermediate fabric prepared in accordance with the present invention.

Besides the stiff or semi-stiff collars and cuffs referred to above, the neckbands or fronts of men's shirts may consist of the product of the invention, or the product may be used for the construction of hats, or parts of hats, such as sweat bands and visors. be used for the inner linings of neckties or as stiffening material employed in the linings of .garments, such as coats, in order to retain the shape. thereof. Further, the product may be used for a variety of other industrial and commercial purposes in which a fabric of increased stiffness and/ or impermeability is required.

The fabrics employed, both the intermediate fabric according to the invention and the fabrics united thereby may be out, if necessary, to any desired shape prior to union. Furthermore, before the cut fabrics are united together they may, if desired, be manipulated as an assembly before union takes place. This is particularly convenientwhere a garment is made which is to be locally stiffened, e. g. a shirt with stiff or semistiff cuffs, neck-bands, front and/or collar. It is Similarly, the product may convenient to sew theassembly together before it is subjected to heat and pressure.

In order to promote the union of the fabricsa suitable liquid may be applied to them, such as a material which is an active or true solvent for the cellulose derivative, e. g. in the case of cellulose acetate, acetone, ethyl lactate or formal glycerol, preferably diluted with water. Alternatively, and preferably (since the action of the active or true solvents is sometimesliable to be too rapid and to give rise to defective products) a volatile liquid may be employed which at ordinary temperatures is a non-solvent for the cellulose derivative but which may serve to promote the union of the fabrics under the action of heat.

Examples of non-solvent liquids which under the action of heat promote the union of fabrics one of which is an intermediate fabric according to the invention are'ethyl or methyl alcohol or mixtures of these liquids, preferably diluted with water. Thus, for example, a convenient specific liquid is a mixture of 80% ethyl alcohol and 20% of water. Another liquid which may conveniently be used is an aqueous solution of the mono-methyl ether of ethylene glycol, containing, say, about 20% of water. The non-solvent liquid may be applied to the fabrics or to the assembly of fabrics in any suitable manner as by dipping, spraying, brushing or padding. It is desirable that the liquid should reach all the surfaces which are to be united together when heat and pressure are applied.

As an alternative to the use of active solvents V or of non-solveht liquids of the kind described above, the intermediate fabric accordingto the present invention may have a content of plasticising agent which will serve to promote the union, or a solutionof a plasticising agent in a nonsolvent liquid may be applied to the intermediate fabric before assembling, or to the assembly of fabrics. The use of a plasticising agent in the intermediate fabric is especially convenient as it renders it possible to use the intermediate fabric for uniting external fabrics consisting mainly or even wholly of cellulose derivative yarns. The presence of a plasticiser in the intermediate fabric causes the cellulose derivative content of such fabric to meltor coalesce more readily than the cellulose derivative of the external fabrics, the external fabrics, though made of thermoplastic materials, being relatively non-thermoplastic in comparison with the cellulose derivative in the intermediate fabric containing the plasticiser. Thus, by a suitable control of the heat and pressure a stiffened fabric may be prepared which has external surfaces containing unchanged yarns of a cellulose derivative, while between the fabric the cellulose derivative yarns of the intermediate fabric have melted or coalesced. The plasticiser may be incorporated in the intermediate fabric by any suitable means, e. g. by incorporation in the dope from which the cellulose derivative yarns of the intermediate fabric have been formed, or by dipping, brushing, spraying or padding. Where the plasticiser is incorporated in the dope from which some of the yarns of the intermediate fabric are formed, the remaining yarns of the intermediate fabric may, like the external fabric consist of a cellulose derivative having no plasticiser content. Where the plasticiser content of the intermediate layer is relied upon to facilitate the adhesion it is desirable that the assembly of fabrics should be wetted with water prior to the application of heat and pressure.

Suitable plasticisers for the purpose are those 7 commonly used in connection with the cellulose derivative material employed in the intermediate layer, e. g. dimethyl phthalate, diethyl tartrate, dibutyl tartrate, diacetine, triacetine and the like. The amount of plasticiser employed is preferably large, e. g. of the order of Mil-150% of the weight of the cellulose derivative.

The assembled fabrics may be submitted to heat and pressure by any convenient means, for example by hot ironing or by passing between calender rolls one or both of which are heated, or by pressing between a roller and a plate or surface or between two plates or surfaces, one or both of the pressing members being suitably heated. The heated pressing member or members may be heated to any desired temperature, for example from 80 to 180 C. or more, and the pressure applied may be, for example, from 10 to 600 lbs. per square inch or more.

The heat and pressure may be applied locally,-

e. g. by means of devices having designs, such as dots, stripes, rectangles or other geometric or floral patterns embossed thereon, and novel effects may be obtained in this manner. Since only those parts of the fabrics which come under the raised portions of the device are subjected to heat and pressure a local union of the fabrics is obtained.

The fabrics and articles produced by the invention have a stiffness which is permanent so that they may be subjected to repeated laundering without losing stiffness, and without the use of starch, or like stiffening agents. The degree of stiffness may be adjusted by adjusting the weight of thermoplastic cellulose derivative in the intermediate fabric and/ or the conditions under which union is effected. Thus, higher degrees of heat and pressure give rise to higher degrees of stiffness as does the use of larger quantities of suitable volatile liquids.

While the invention is of particular advantage when the intermediate fabric contains yarn of cellulose acetate floated on'both sides of the fabric, other cellulose derivatives may be employed. Examples of other cellulose derivatives are other esters of cellulose such as cellulose formate, propionate and butyrate and cellulose ethers such as ethyl and benzyl cellulose.

Having described our invention, what we desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yarns of thermoplastic material and yarns of relatively non-thermoplastic material, the yarns of thermoplastic material each passing successively over a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns and under a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns, forming floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric.

2. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose and yarns of nonthermoplastic fibres, the yarns of the organic derivative of cellulose each passing successively over a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns and under a. plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns, forming floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric.

3. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yarns of cellulose acetate and yarns of non-thermoplastic fibres, the yarns of cellulose acetate each passing successively over a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns and-funder a plurality of the nonthermoplastic yarns",. forming' floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric.

4. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yiarns of thermoplastic material and yarns of relatively non-thermoplastic material, the yarns of thermoplastic material being disposed in the weft and forming pairs of picks alternating with pairs of picks of relatively non-thermoplastic yarn, said thermoplastic yarns each passing successively over a plurality of non-thermoplastic yarns and under a plurality 'of non-thermoplastic yarns to form floats on both sides of the intermediate and under a plurality of non-thermoplastic yarns to form floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric.

6. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yarns of thermoplastic material and yarns of relatively non-thermoplastic material, the yarns of thermoplastic material containing a plasticiser for said thermoplastic material, said thermoplastic yarns each passing successively over a plurality of nonthermoplastic yarns and under a plurality of nonthermoplastic yarns to form floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric.

7. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in the uniting together of two other layers of fabric, said intermediate fabric comprising yarns of thermoplastic material and yarns of relatively non-thermoplastic material, the yarns of thermoplastic material each passing successively over a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns and under a plurality of the non-thermoplastic yarns, forming floats on both sides of the intermediate fabric, said yarns of relatively non-thermoplastic material forming by themselves a coherent fabric.

8. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in uniting two other layers of fabric to one another, said intermediate fabric consisting of yarns of cellulose acetate and yarns of cellulose, said yarns of cellulose acetate containing a plasticiser for said cellulose acetate and each passing successively over a plurality of the cellulose yarns and under a plurality of the cellulose yarns to form floats on both sides of the fabric.

9. An intermediate fabric adapted for use in uniting two other layers of fabric to one another,

DONALD FINLAYSON. HARRY CRAWSHAW. 

